travelirelandmagazine volume 5 issue 57 january 2019 stars to visit the cripple of inishmaan ridley me this january at the abbey trad carefully temple bar’s tradfest out of this world astrofest 2019 music to your ears galway midwinter festival bowie festival falls to dublin keith barry’s spellbinding new show goodbye winter blues, hello festival folk | imbolc 2019
contents ellen media communications ltd suite 4, talbot business centre, 19 talbot st , dublin 1. tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com travel ireland magazine @traveliremag 4 welcome to leinster willkommen-bienvenida-bienvenue-welcome to our january issue! whether 6 8 10 12 14 the cripple of inishmaan temple bar tradfest theatre the gpo by pat liddy shopping this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at travel ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. this month, we put a spotlight on some fantastic events happening in the irish capital – including dublin bowie festival, the irish premieres of two 16 dublin bowie festival philip ridley plays at the abbey theatre, as well as the gaiety’s new star- studded production of martin mcdonagh’s the cripple of inishmaan. we also highlight the various music festivals kicking off 2019 around the country such as tradfest at temple bar, co clare’s shannonside, co derry’s imbolc and music for galway’s special midwinter event. pat liddy writes about the history of the gpo and the magazine gives the rundown on the best theatre to see. whatever you end up doing, we at travel ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay. 46 16 8 18 19 20 22 24 explore leinster leinster bars the ridleys leinster restaurants keith barry 26 welcome to munster 28 30 shannonside winter music festival explore munster 32 munster bars 33 munster restaurants 34 cobh heritage centre 36 welcome to connaught 38 40 41 astrofest connaught bars connaught restaurants 42 music for galway 44 explore connaught 45 welcome to ulster 46 48 49 imbolc music festival ulster bars ulster restaurants 50 great irish writers published by ellen media communications ltd publisher john carey features writer stephen porzio (email@example.com) design & art direction outburst design advertising john carey (firstname.lastname@example.org, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) contributors: pat liddy, angeline le mercier, adam patterson photography, john mccurdy, paula moore, patrick o’ , stephen walker, ivan donoghue, joleen cronin, richard eibrand, padraig o’donnell, michael mclaughlin, roma keeley. we wish to record our thanks to michael bates, failte ireland, the office of public works and the national monuments service, dept of arts, heritage and the gaeltacht, the northern ireland tourist board and the national trust-giants causeway (ni) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition. we would also like to thank paddy donovan, ed reeve, carr cotter and naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images. ellen media communications limited. all rights reserved. ellen media communications limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. all unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. no material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by ellen media communications ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur. january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 3
leinster - the east coast province leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of ireland, and is the most populated with the city of dublin at its heart. the province is made up of counties dublin, louth, meath, carlow, kildare, wicklow, laois, offaly, longford, westmeath, kilkenny and wexford. these counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see. county dublin is the home to the capital city. dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. it is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife. all roads lead to saint stephen’s green in the very centre of the city. you’ll find it at the top of grafton street, with trinity college down at the other end. and just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of temple bar between dame street and the river that, famously, divides the north and the south of the city. if you want to escape to the country without gpo, dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to howth head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of dalkey and killiney. half an hour on the dart train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country. county meath formerly known as the royal county is the ancient seat of the high kings of ireland who were based around the hill of tara. meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its neolithic sites at newgrange, knowth and dowth. these ancient religious sites (built before the pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. the sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of dublin and are accessible phoenix park, dublin through the bru na boinne visitors centre. the county also features the site of the battle of the boyne which was one of the great battles fought on irish soil. for horse racing lovers, meath has the wonderful fairyhouse racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on laytown beach. county wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the glendalough monastic settlement with its abbey and round tower, to the fabulous powerscourt house and gardens. the wicklow hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of bray are just some of its many attractions. offaly is situated in the centre of ireland. nestling between the shannon river to the west and the slieve bloom mountains to the east, offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. any visitor should travel along the royal canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world. kildare is the home of the national stud, newbridge silverware and maynooth college. couple all these with mondello park motor racing, naas horse racing course and lullymore heritage and discovery park and there is something for everyone. westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of ireland. it is home to the rté st kevin’s church, glendalough all-ireland drama festival, the oldest pub in ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. it is the home of the cooley mountains, the boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful carlingford area. if it is a leisurely drive you seek louth is the place to go. carlow is where you will find three of ireland’s key national walking routes – the south leinster, the barrow and the wicklow ways. carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every june. laois is where you can try your hand at a round tower, glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the stradbally woods to western-style riding at fossey mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the republic or tie a fly at the unique irish fly-fishing and game shooting museum. kilkenny city was voted ireland’s top tourism town for 2013 by failte ireland which is ireland’s main tourism body. it was voted cleanest town in ireland at end of 2013 by irish business against litter (ibal), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of conde nast traveler. the city was in addition voted most friendliest city in europe. couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor. longford is situated in the basin of the river shannon and the upper catchment area of the river erne. it is ideally located in the heart of the lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. the county’s accessibility to many of irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base. finally, wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with county waterford is known as ‘the sunny south east’. you can also visit the oldest lighthouse in europe which stands on the hook peninsula. so now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in leinster! 4 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
gourmet french cuisine pre-theatre & early-bird dining vegetarian, coeliac & gluten free options private dining rooms available 81 - 82 talbot street, dublin 2 |tel: 01 704 0126 |email: email@example.com |www. leboncrubeen.ie celtic lodge guesthouse in the heart of dublin city centre celtic lodge is located on talbot street in dublin city centre. recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. the celtic lodge guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both connolly train station and busáras, the main bus station in dublin. popular dublin attractions such as the guinness storehouse, dublin zoo, book of kells at trinity college, st. patrick’s cathedral, dublin castle and the old jameson distillery are also close by. celtic lodge offers quality dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in dublin. dublin’s finest traditional irish pub traditional irish music every evening from 9pm. come on in for a pint and the craic! come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at the celt bar, the traditional irish pub in dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real guinness. 81-82 talbot street, dublin 1 . tel: 01 878 8810 email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.celticlodge.ie www.thecelt.ie the celt bar 81-82 talbot street, dublin 1
star studded cast in gaiety’s the cripple of inishmaan an ensemble cast including ian o’reilly (moone boy), jamie-lee o’donnell (derry girls), phelim drew (my left foot) and rosaleen linehan (the butcher boy) will star in the gaiety theatre’s upcoming production of martin mcdonagh’s the cripple of inishmaan. directed by frequent mcdonagm collaborator andrew flynn - wmo recently worked on acclaimed productions of tme writer’s otmer works a skull in connemara and the pillowman, - tme play will run from january 25 to marcm 9. wmile tme gaiety mave a long mistory of co-producing plays, tmis is tme first tme tmeatre will produce on tmeir own. “we’re incredibly excited for tme new production of tmis irism modern classic from martin mcdonagm, an award-winning screenwriter, playwrigmt and director,” said caroline downey, managing director of tme tmeatre, at tme cast announcement. “he’s one of my favourite writers of all time and tme cripple of inismmaan is one of my favourite plays me mas written.” mcdonagm began mis career as a playwrigmt witm a series of plays set in and around galway including the beauty queen of leenane (1996), the lonesome west (1997) and the lieutenant of inishmore (2001). having earned acclaim for mis irism work, me transitioned into screenwriting and directing witm smort film six shooter (2004) wmicm picked up an academy award. since tmen, mcdonagm directed movies in bruges (2008) and seven psychopaths (2012). his latest three billboards outside ebbing, missouri (2017) picked up many awards including best motion picture – drama and best screenplay at tmis year’s golden globes. tme writer still works in tmeatre also. his most recent plays hangmen (2015) and a very very very dark matter (2018) premiered in london, wmile 2011’s a behanding in spokane opened on broadway. speaking about mis relationsmip witm 6 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
tme playwrigmt, flynn said: “i was only an assistant stage manager wmen i met martin first. at tmat point, me was only a struggling writer. since me’s exploded in botm tme film and stage industry so it’s an monour to be asked to direct one of my favourite plays.” tme cripple of inishmaan (1997) is set on tme aran islands in 1930s, wmere tme inmabitants are excited to learn of a hollywood film crew’s arrival to make a documentary. “cripple” billy claven, eager to escape tme gossip, poverty and boredom of mis village, vies for a part in tme film, and to everyone’s surprise, tme orpman and outcast gets mis cmance…. or so some believe. newcomer ruairi heading will star as billy. director andrew flynn was effusive in mis praise for mis leading man: “he came into an audition and me just lit tme room up. he’s a fantastic actor. he will be a muge star.” flynn continued stating: “tme centre piece for me of any production is tme actors. tmey are tme ones tmat really do bring life and air into tmese great words. we’ve gatmered a fantastic ensemble.” joining heading is jamie-lee o’donnell, star of derry girls, as helen, a feisty girl for wmom billy mas a crusm. “wmen martin writes female cmaracters my god me makes tmem memorable and we got a gem to play mer,” said flynn. tmis year, frances mcdormand won a best actress oscar for mer role in three billboards… norma smeaman and ian o’reilly of moone boy fame will also star in tme smow as eileen and bartley, joined by acclaimed tmeatre actors catmerine walsm, rosaleen lineman and jomn oloman. sean fox (taken down) and pmelim drew round out tme cast. flynn also revealed tmat on tme play 32 irism tmeatre makers will be employed: “at a time wmen tmere seems to be less productions mappening nationally and in dublin, tmat’s great for actors, directors and designers.” speaking about tme set design, tme director stated: “tme set is in construction. it’s a very different take on tmis play. i’m confident it will bring new life into martin’s words.” tme actors will begin remearsals on tme play in a few weeks: “i’ve been working on tmis since may,” said flynn. “i’m like a cmild in a sweet smop now because we’re going into remearsal and tmat’s wmere i love to be. speaking about tme play, downey said sme moped the cripple of inishmaan production would be tme first in a “long collaboration” between flynn, mcdonagm and tme tmeatre. tickets cost from €18.50. to purchase them or for more details visit www.gaietytheatre.ie/. catherine walsh ian o’reilly jamie-lee o'donnell sean fox norma sheahan and catherine walsh january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 7
trad carefully tradfest returns to temple bar tradfest returns to temple bar this january 23 - 27, showcasing the best of both irish and international folk artists. 8 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
since its establishment in 2006, the past decade has seen tradfest grow to become ireland’s largest festival for traditional music. with a guest list featuring artists from the world of trad, nu-folk and even rock and roll, organisers say the event should appeal to everyone - perfect for saying goodbye to winter and ushering in the light and energy of spring. on january 25, irish singer-songwriter and chart-topper cathy davey will perform in st. michan's church. tickets are from €21.99. the gig will see davey play songs from her fifth and latest album live at dublin unitarian church, featuring pared- down versions of her hit favourites ‘sing for your supper’, ‘little red’ and ‘moving’. music aficionados can see two great irish artists for the price of one as david kitt and inni-k headline a night at the workman’s club on january 24. tickets cost €19.99. dublin raised kitt last year released his seventh album yous to rave reviews, with critics praising its blend of dance and folk music, as well as the record’s immersive sound. meanwhile, kildare singer and multi-instrumentalist inni-k will be playing songs from her eagerly anticipated upcoming sophomore lp – set for release early 2019. named as one of ten fierce women defining irish culture by rté.ie, she broke onto the scene with her 2015 debut the king has two horse’s ears. legends will be honoured on january 24 as phelim drew – son of dubliner ronnie drew – performs some of his father’s band’s classic songs like ‘the rocky road to dublin’ and ‘the black velvet band’ 10 years after his passing. also, taking place in the pepper canister church, entry is from €15.99. in terms of international artists, nashville singer and grammy winner kathy mattea will perform at st. patrick’s cathedral on january 25. entry is from €34.99. mattea’s story is one of triumph. following a string of gold and platinum records, as the musician entered her 50’s she began to struggle with her aging, changing voice. after a six-year hiatus - whereby the singer retrained with a vocal coach - mattea returned to the country scene last year with album ‘pretty bird’, earning a whole new wave of acclaim. for the same price, one can also see legendary 70s uk folk-rock pioneers lindisfarne perform at st. patrick’s cathedral on january 23, fronted by original founder/member rod clements on vocals, mandolin, fiddle and slide guitar. with a repertoire of famed tracks like ‘meet me on the corner’, ‘fog on the tyne’, ‘lady eleanor’ and ‘run for home’, tradfest organisers say the band are guaranteed to get the crowds who see them up on their feet and singing along. one can also catch inni-k performing in american singer/social activist jim liam ó maonlaí’s all-star trad band ré in the same venue the night before. also featuring piper maitiú ó casaide, concertina player cormac begley and former hothouse flower peter o’toole, the super group will be supported by louth folk favourites kern. entry is from €21.99. for more homegrown talent, singer- songwriter paddy casey – best known for singles ‘saints and sinners’, ‘the lucky one’, ‘bend down low’ and ‘want it can’t have it. – will be playing three nights at the fest (24, 26, 27). also, dublin singer and multi-instrumentalist radie peat will perform on its closing day in pepper canister church. tickets are from €12.99. page will also grace tradfest on january 26, performing at st michan’s church for €19.99. page is best known for his politically charged songs, as well as his ongoing work promoting and supporting busking – organising the seattle incarnation of travelling festival buskerfest. meanwhile, british singer-songwriter martin harley and dublin spoken word poet and playwright stephen james smith – who performed with imelda may at last year’s trinity summer series – will join forces for a special show. taking place january 26 at pepper canister church, tickets are from €12.99. on top of these gigs, there will be special events running throughout the festival including tradhub – a free late-night club, presenting the best up-and-comers on the irish trad scene; tradfringe, featuring workshops and masterclasses; and the event’s music trail – featuring daily sessions throughout the pubs of temple bar. for more information and to find out about tradfest’s other acts, visit www.tradfest.ie. january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 9
theatre mermaid arts centre i hear you and rejoice by mikel murfi the gate theatre the great gatsby acclaimed playwright and stage actor mikel murfi (ballyturk) returns with a one man show. late in his life, pat farnon, a cobbler and all- round contented man, embarks on a journey he had not quite planned. in doing so, he finds that every twist in the road can bring its own surprises. the play has garnered rave reviews with the new york times calling it ‘a many- tongued wonder of irish storytelling.’ catch it for one night only at the mermaid arts centre. dates: jan 18 tel: 01 272 4030 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie also at the mermaid arts centre this month: the gingerbread man jan 4, infinity jan 31. bord gáis energy theatre calendar girls based on a true story, as well as the 2003 smash hit comedy film, calendar girls is an award- winning musical from take that’s gary barlow and playwright tim firth (the band) about a group of ordinary ladies who produced a nude calendar to raise money for leukaemia research. the comedy comes to the bord gáis energy theatre after performances on the london's west end where it earned glowing reviews. dates: jan 22 – feb 2 tel: 01 677 7999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie also at bord gáis this month: macbeth jan 15 – 19. the abbey theatre tonight with donny stixx/dark vanilla jungle by philip ridley two plays from english writer-director philip ridley (the krays, the reflecting skin, the passion of darkly moon) will be performed back to back at the abbey theatre. tonight with donny stixx centres on a teenage magician with mental health problems while dark vanilla jungle focuses on an underage girl groomed by an older man for sex. linked through poeticism and dark subject matter, the two plays will be performed together each evening (more details page 20, 21). this immersive stage adaptation of f. scott fitzgerald’s classic novel about young, mysterious millionaire jay gatsby continues its run at the gate following a string of sold out shows last month. the theatre is transformed into the central character’s mansion, famed for its decadent opulence and atmosphere. the seats are removed from the auditorium, allowing audiences access to the stage and backstage areas, the green room, hospitality room and the studio space, enabling them to experience one of gatsby’s unique and legendary parties, with a bar in full swing. organisers say 1920s jazz age style costumes are encouraged and dancing shoes are mandatory. dates: jan – feb 16 tel 01 874 4045 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie the olympia theatre keith barry - deception leading irish hypnotist, mentalist, brain hacker and mind magician keith barry is bringing his new show to the olympia. titled deception, the live performance will feature the tv star using brainwashing, subliminal messaging, cults and much more to explore how easy the line between reality and trickery can be blurred. organisers say: “if you want to laugh until your face hurts and be badly deceived then deception is for you” (more details page 24). dates: jan 18, feb 1 tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie dates: jan 15 - 26 tel: 01 887 2200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie also, at the olympia this month: a bowie celebration jan 9 (more details page 16, 17). 10 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 the gaiety theatre the snow queen gaiety panto the snow queen continues its run into january, following a string of sold-out shows in december. adapted from the hans christian andersen story, it centres on the evil titular character who with chilling treachery, kidnaps one half of a beloved couple and casts a ‘sub-zero spell’. this leads to our hero embarking on an adventure, trekking through storm and blizzard to find his lost love. starring irish native and west end star louise bowden (mamma mia, mary poppins) as the snow queen, the show will put to the test whether true love can melt a frozen heart. dates: jan 1 – jan 20 tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie also at the gaiety this month: the cripple of inishmaan jan 25 – mar 9 (more details page 6, 7). smock alley theatre personal space: volume 2 by dreamgun after last year’s sellout inaugural dark comedy anthology show personal space, co-writers and performers stephen colfer, hannah mamalis and peter mcgann return. from the same creatives involved with the popular dreamgun film reads, this new show will see the comedians present audiences with three more stories focusing on the worst people in the worst situations. and there’s a twist. dates: jan 14 - 19 tel 01 677 0014 or visit www.smockalley.com also at smock alley this month: son of a preacher man jan 1 – 5, sally denver matthews jan 2 – 5, nothing but a toerag jan 7 – 12, infinity 7 – 12, blue devils jan 11, in two minds jan 12, the first protestant jan 23 – 26.
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by pat liddygpo ireland’s hall of independence – th e general post oﬃ ce now one of dublin’s most historic and iconic buildings, the general post oﬃ ce (gpo) might never have been where it is on o’connell street had not some houses collapsed there in 1796. first bid to redevelop the site, this time for a cathedral, was from the roman catholic church. due to protestant opposition this idea was abandoned. a more favourable view was taken when the irish post oﬃ ce sought to erect their new headquarters here. th e city’s fi rst postmaster was appointed in 1562 and gradually a nation-wide postal service was established. th ere were various locations for the letter oﬃ ce, later known as the general post oﬃ ce, before it fi nally settled on sackville (now o’connell) street. th e foundation stone was laid in 1814 and the splendid building, designed by francis johnston, was opened in january 1818. fashioned in greek revival style with six soaring portland stone ionic columns, the gpo literally became the centerpiece of dublin’s main street and the vital centre of communications, both postal and telegraphic. expensively restored and updated it reopened to great acclaim in march 1916 only to become smashed to ruin a mere month later. th e gpo had been seized on april 24 by rebels during the easter rising in order to disable the telegraph oﬃ ce. th e building was also used as their headquarters during that fateful week. around 300 insurgents were cooped up there by the th ursday of easter week by which time the british army had begun fi ring incendiary shells at the building. soon uncontrollable fi res swept through the whole edifi ce and the rebels evacuated on friday and surrendered the next day from nearby moore street. except for the still-standing front façade, the gpo was a smouldering wreck and it would take over 12 years to rebuild it. nearly tripled in length down henry and palace 12 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
streets the gpo re-opened in 1929. now it is seen as the birthplace of irish independence and the statue behind the central window reflects this. it represents a heroic figure from irish mythology, cúchulainn, who single- handedly defended his ulster homeland against an invading army. on his plinth is an extract from the revolutionary proclamation of independence read outside the gpo on that easter monday by pádraig pearse, one of the doomed rebel leaders (they were later executed). during the current decade of commemorations (remembering the seminal years in ireland's struggle for independence, 1913 to 1923), an excellent way to find out more about this turbulent period, and especially the rising of 1916, is to visit the gpo witness history exhibition. through state-of-the-art electronic touch screens, video, audio visual booths, sound and authentic artefacts – many of which previously unseen – history comes to life as attendees experience events from the perspective of both sides of the conflict and the bystanders caught in the crossfire. the exhibition is open daily, on monday to saturday from 10:00 to 17:30 (last admission 16:30). for sundays and bank holidays, opening hours are 12:00 to 17:30. it is closed new year’s day, st patrick’s day and easter sunday. for more information and to book tickets, visit www.gpowitnesshistory.ie. dodublintours dublin’s no.1 bus tour s v o ted a n o whether you want to sit back and soak up the culture at dublin’s historic sites or get out there and explore the streets, meet the people and sample the guinness, our guides can help you make the most of your holiday and see the city like a local. free kids free hotel shuttle free walking tour free little museum of dublin the dubliner’s guide to dublin r t r i p ad v i s o book a tour buy in person at dublin bus head oﬃ ce 59 upper o’connell st, dublin 1 hop on and pay driver book online dodublin.ie dodublin.ie january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 13
recommended shopping powerscourt centre courtville – matthew weldon celtic whiskey shop located in dublin’s creative quarter on the bustling south william street is the powerscourt centre. housed in a stunning georgian townhouse, the powerscourt centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience. the centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as all saints, french connection and mary grant and if antiques are your thing then the powerscourt centre is the place to go. there are a number of antique stores in the centre, including courtville antiques, delphi antiques, lilly fine art, the silver shop and monte cristo. if you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie stephen’s green shopping centre located at the top of grafton street, in the heart of dublin city centre, stephen’s green shopping centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers. household names such as dunnes stores, argos, boots, eason, united colors of benetton, mothercare, elverys, golden discs and tk maxx can be found here. when you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in st stephen’s green. www.stephensgreen.com jam art factory courtville is a traditional dublin shop with a friendly atmosphere, in business over 50 years and based in the antique gallery within the historic powerscourt townhouse. their collection of vintage, antique and estate jewellery are sure to capture your imagination. they are envisioning a more personal, accessible and enjoyable world to trade fine jewellery and engagement rings. authenticity is guaranteed on every piece. instagram: @matthew.weldons antique gallery - powerscourt townhouse centre, 59 south william street, dublin 2 01-6794042 tights department tights dept. is an irish owned store specialising in italian legwear. they offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. top brands: omsa, emilio cavallini, trasparenze, omero and happy socks. unit 108, 1st floor, stephen's green shopping centre, dublin 2, ireland d02 vf67 shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide) designer exchange jam art factory was set up in 2011 by brothers john and mark to showcase the work of irish artists and designers. it specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty dublin themed work. it has been shortlisted in the irish times “best shops in ireland” 4 years in a row. 64 patrick street, dublin 8 14 crown alley, temple bar, dublin 2 tel: 01 616 5671 www.jamartfactory.com and www.jamartprints.com 14 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, designer exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as dkny, louis vuitton and chanel. they offer incredible savings on these top designer brands. 53 dawnson street, dublin 2. 35 exchequer street, dublin 2. tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/designerexchangeltd ireland’s premier irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. it boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! if you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations. 27 – 28 dawson street, dublin 2 tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com mitchell & son wine merchants since 1805, family-owned mitchell & son have been providing fine wines & spirits to the people of ireland. now in the hands of the 7th generation, they offer a high quality selection of new & old world wines, champagne, & fortified wines. home to the green and yellow spot irish whiskeys, they also have a wide selection of irish, scotch, & japanese whiskies, and other fine spirits. with a superb selection of riedel glassware and decanters, coravin wine system, and le creuset wine accessories, they are one of the most diverse independent wine merchants in ireland. mitchell & son also offer wine and whiskey appreciation courses that provide an understanding of the irish market and a chance to explore your tastes. chq building, ifsc, dublin, d01 fc89 tel: 01 612 5540 www.mitchellandson.com
recommended shopping the donegal shop puro amelia’s irish design the donegal shop is an independently owned and family run irish business. they are specialists in donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. the store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of donegal artists. mention travel ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd floor, st stephen’s green shopping centre, dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com james fox puro offers innovative collections of contemporary urban-wear and luxury sneakers from emerging talents as well as world renowned designers. brands include pal zileri, joop!, baldessarini, guess, philippe model, gold brothers, android homme, mallet and many more. puro is the only irish stockist of many of these brands and while we feel a visit to this beautiful store is a must to truly appreciate the collections, you can also shop or browse first online at puromenswear.com 34 wicklow street, dublin, ireland email@example.com call (01) 558 1406 the kilkenny shop the kilkenny shop is ireland’s largest emporium for irish designed products; from fashion and jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. for over five decades, the kilkenny shop has been supporting irish design talent, stocking top designers like waterford crystal, orla kiely, aideen bodkin, nicholas mosse and stephen pearce. 6 nassau street, dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com irish linen house amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. they stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the north-west of ireland. there are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! all pieces are handpicked by owner frances spears. she has over 20 years experience in the design and antiques business so you know you’re in good hands when you pay a visit to amelia’s irish design. 29 upper main street, letterkenny co. donegal 087 2434060 www.amelias.ie mackintosh by francis campelli mackintoshes were first produced in ireland in 1889 and francis campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands when you visit this store. they offer the finest quality, waterproof mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories. 46 south william street, dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com article for over 135 years, james fox cigar and whiskey store has been dublin’s focal point for lovers of irish whiskey and premium cuban cigars. here you will find ireland’s largest selection of handmade cuban cigars, including rare and vintage stock. james fox also stock a large range of premium irish whiskeys and spirits to satisfy the most discerning palates. tax-free shopping available in-store and online. 119 grafton street, dublin, ireland. tel: (01) 677 0533 email: firstname.lastname@example.org website: www.jamesfox.ie irish linen house create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest irish linen. each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including barneys of new york. just up the road from the jameson distillery, their smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of ireland. nr. jameson distillery, bow street smithfield village, dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774 this charming store in the powerscourt townhouse centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in ireland. they stock homeware from around the world, including irish designers - with everything from irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice. powerscourt townhouse, south william street, dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 15
bowie festival falls to dublin all you sretty things! the annual dublin bowie festival returns for its fourth edition from january 7-13. fans of the legendary singer are in for a treat with the week-long event set to celebrate 50 years of his iconic record space oddity. organisers promise an unbelievable line-up of musicians, photographers, artists, writers, djs, designers and even an astronaut or two. to mark bowie’s ground-breaking 1969 album - along with that year’s moon landing - the festival has joined forces with blackrock castle observatory’s dr niamh shaw. she, along with the country’s top astronauts and space experts, will celebrate all things cosmos. “dublin bowie festival 2019 is ready to launch to the stars as we celebrate these momentous anniversaries,” says festival organiser john brereton in a statement. “we are particularly delighted to have lots of 16 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 family friendly events in the program too so there’s something there for everyone to enjoy.” kicking off the festival on monday, january 7 is a world premiere exclusive performance of space oddity from start to finish by the i heart bowie ensemble. they will perform the lp, as well other classics from the singer, alongside the trinity orchestra and some very special guest singers in the national concert hall. the festival will collaborate with mcd as they host the irish performance of a bowie celebration in the olympia theatre, wednesday january 9. comprising of five key members of bowie’s band over his long career - mark plati, carmine rojas, earl slick, dubliner gerry leonard and bowie’s longest serving sidekick, pianist mike garson – the evening will feature plenty of the singer’s hits, along with some deep cuts. other musical highlights include a double bill at the grand social on friday, january 11. it will feature irish acclaimed tribute act heroes from mars as well as the only act on the planet that cover bowie’s 1960’s material, the london boys. another native cover band - rebel rebel - will headline the academy on saturday 12. later that night the action resumes in the grand social for a midnight space masquerade ball featuring those rum rogues of electric picnic - the salty dog allstars. the festival will welcome from sweden its most famous jazz/bossa nova vocalist miriam aïda. she will be showcasing her new album, loving the alien, a 12-track reinterpretation of
the festival will performance of collaborate with mcd as they host the irish a bowie celebration in the olympia theatre, wednesday january 9 classic bowie tracks in her own inimitable style in the sugar club on thursday, january 10. featured on times square this summer, advertising the v&a’s worldwide bowie is expo. also running as part of the festival is photographer brian duffy’s exhibition at the ebow art gallery on castle street. duffy had an eight-year working relationship with bowie. he shot five key sessions with the singer over this period providing the creative concept as well as the photographic image for three album covers, including 1973’s aladdin sane, 1979’s lodger and 1980’s scary monsters (and super creeps). another festival guest is renowned rolling stone photographer john rowlands for a visual presentation and discussion of his years working with bowie. rowlands was tour photographer for the singer from 1974-78, capturing some of his most iconic images. most notable is ‘the archer’ which was the lighthouse cinema will be involved again in the festival screening a special bowie related program. the smithfield location will show the man who fell to earth starring bowie as an alien who comes to earth to save his home planet but falls prey to humanity’s vices. the screening is particularly timely given director nicolas roeg’s passing in november last year. the cinema will also screen the movie that inspired bowie to introduce major tom to the universe, stanley kubrick’s 2001 - a space odyssey, as well as moon, the debut of one duncan jones, bowie’s son. for family fun, there is also 80’s musical fantasy labyrinth, starring bowie as a villainous goblin king. its noon screening on saturday 12, kicks off a family friendly day of activities in smithfield square. it includes talks, workshops and experiments as well as a chance to gaze up at the stars from inside a mobile planetarium looking at the view from major tom’s tin can. for the festival’s space program, dr shaw is on board to curate an array of events based around humanity’s quest to conquer space. niamh is artist in residence at blackrock castle observatory and will bring her knowledge to special talks, workshops, q&a’s and even comedy improv probing the mysteries of our solar system. the festival will team up with trinity science gallery for some of these events. over 8,000 people attended the festival last year. for more details on the 2019 programme, visit www.dublinbowiefestival.ie/. january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 17
explore leinster epic the irish emigration museum epic is a state-of-the-art museum that tells the moving and unforgettable story of the 10 million people who left ireland – and how they infl uenced and shaped the world. experience this breathtaking story in the world’s only fully digital museum. th is top-rated attraction houses the irish family history centre, helping visitors uncover their irish roots. top 10 th ings to do in dublin on tripadvisor and shortlisted for european museum of the year 2018. open daily 10am to 6:45pm (last entry 5pm). th e chq building, custom house quay, dublin 1. epicchq.com +353 (0)1 906 0861 glasnevin cemetery glasnevin cemetery museum museum and and guided tours guided tours glasnevin is one of ireland’s most popular attractions. located 2.5km from dublin centre, this is a hauntingly gorgeous victorian garden cemetery where over 1.5 million are buried. guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours. a history lesson made fun and memorable by guides who know their stuff, be prepared to enjoy yourself. awarded best cultural experience in ireland and listed at no. 2 on tripadvisor, glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site. open daily for guided tours and re-enactments email@example.com 18 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 the chester beatty library the only museum in ireland to win ‘european museum of the year’ and described by the lonely planet as not just the best museum in ireland, but one of the best in europe, the chester beatty library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world. egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the qur’an, the bible, european medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. and be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. they take place on wednesdays at 1pm and on sundays at 3pm and 4pm. opening hours: 10am-5pm mon-fri, sat 11am-5pm, sun 1pm-5pm. tel: 01 407 0750 pat liddy walking tours of dublin if you really want to get to know the city, then walking around with an entertaining and professional guide is the best way to discover its history and hidden treasures. pat liddy’s walking tours of dublin have been off ering their famous tours for over a decade. th e tours are described as entertaining and full of history. even for someone who lives in dublin, the tours surprises with loads of hidden facts. you can choose from a wide range of scheduled tours (all year round), including three brand new tours designed to get you off the beaten path. docklands – th e new old dublin, hidden gems of the northside and th e tempting whiskey trail around the historic liberties. private tours can be arranged at any time geared to the topic of your choice. tours are off ered in main european languages. find out more book at: www.walkingtours.ie contact: firstname.lastname@example.org or 00353 10832 9406 kilmainham gaol (jail) kilmainham gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. built in 1796, kilmainham gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in ireland’s emergence as a modern nation. the tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance. tel: 01 453 5984 the national museum of ireland th e museum is recognised as ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. with three locations in dublin covering archaeology, natural history, decorative arts & history, and one location in mayo covering country life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions. free admission tel +353 (0) 1 677 7444 www.museum.ie baggot street welcomes a beautiful modern italian restaurant! open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, dinner 5pm 'til late, mon- sat www.cirillos.ie phone | +353 1 676 6848 location | no. 140, baggot st., dublin 2
recommended bars in leinster the duke ideally situated close to grafton street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of dublin since 1822. they have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. the duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy grafton street. 9 duke st, dublin 2 016799553 sin é sin é on ormond quay is dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, sin é caters for a range of eclectic tastes. the staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. if you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in dublin then sin é is (cid:15)(cid:12)(cid:25)(cid:8)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:24)(cid:22)(cid:12)(cid:6)(cid:3)(cid:8)(cid:25)(cid:8)(cid:21)(cid:28)(cid:3)(cid:17)(cid:12)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:23)(cid:3)(cid:487)(cid:3)(cid:12)(cid:21)(cid:12)(cid:22)(cid:11)(cid:3)(cid:23)(cid:18)(cid:3)(cid:23)(cid:11)(cid:8)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:18)(cid:21)(cid:8) definitely the place to be. the celt (cid:7)(cid:262)(cid:286)(cid:486)(cid:23)(cid:270)(cid:274)(cid:266)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:266)(cid:282)(cid:275)(cid:3)(cid:267)(cid:279)(cid:276)(cid:274)(cid:3)(cid:853)(cid:854)(cid:3)(cid:275)(cid:276)(cid:276)(cid:275) strolling into the celt is like taking a trip to the west, play boys and chailíní payfor attention and dance along the way to the early light 14 -15 ormond quay tel: 01 555 4036 & 01 555 4037 www.sin-e.ie dingle whiskey bar the dingle whiskey bar is a delightful bar nestled beside porterhouse central on nassau st. walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. the bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. and every tuesday they host a whiskey tasting class from 7pm with whiskey guru fionnán o’connor. learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. tickets available at the bar for €18. (cid:860) (cid:853) (cid:486) (cid:860) (cid:854) (cid:3) (cid:150) (cid:131) (cid:142) (cid:132) (cid:145) (cid:150) (cid:3) (cid:149) (cid:150) (cid:148) (cid:135) (cid:135) (cid:150) (cid:481) (cid:3) (cid:134) (cid:151) (cid:132) (cid:142) (cid:139) (cid:144) (cid:3) (cid:133) (cid:139) (cid:150) (cid:155) (cid:3) (cid:133) (cid:135) (cid:144) (cid:150) (cid:148) (cid:135) (cid:153)(cid:153)(cid:153)(cid:484)(cid:150)(cid:138)(cid:135)(cid:133)(cid:135)(cid:142)(cid:150)(cid:484)(cid:139)(cid:135)(cid:3)(cid:3)(cid:3)(cid:3)(cid:150)(cid:135)(cid:142)(cid:483)(cid:3)(cid:852)(cid:853)(cid:3)(cid:860)(cid:859)(cid:860)(cid:3)(cid:860)(cid:858)(cid:857)(cid:857) grogan’s this is the regular hang-out for dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. and at weekends, the place is humming. 15 s william st., dublin 2. tel: 01 677 9320 44 nassau street, dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie jt pim’s located in the heart of the dame district, jt pim’s is styled as a local bar in the city centre. they offer quality drinks in comfortable surrounds. from local beers such as 5 lamps and craft beers such as sierra nevada, to fine wines and signature cocktails such as their twist on the classic whiskey sour, they have all tastes covered. their bartenders are happy to take requests and guide you through the list. relax in their bespoke armchairs or leather couches, or when the sun is shining, soak up the atmosphere in dame court. 4 south great george's street, dublin 2, d02 nr59 phone: (01) 672 4645 the celt situated on talbot street in the heart of dublin, the celt bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic irish experience that is on offer there. visitors can sample the finest irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week. the celt also offer traditional irish food seven days a week. the classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and guinness stew. there’s no better place to go to for the full irish experience than the celt bar. 81 talbot st, dublin tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie the confession box one of the smallest bars in dublin, the confession box is situated in the heart of dublin city near the spire. during the war of independence rebel volunteers sought refuge here and received the sacraments from local sympathetic clergy. recently, this iconic part of dublin’s history was renovated. now run by the capital’s friendliest bar staff, the spot offers great live music from thursday to sunday, as well as coverage of major tv sports events. catering to all tastes, it’s no surprise the confession box has picked up much deserved awards. 88 marlborough st, dublin 1. 01 828 0028 january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 19
ridley me this see two plays for the price of one at the abbey theatre this month with the irish premieres of philip ridley’s tonight with donny stixx and dark vanilla jungle. 20 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
january at the abbey working in a wide range of artistic media, the english storyteller is perhaps best known for his screenplay for 1990 gangster flick the krays. he has also garnered a cult following as a writer-director for his loose trilogy of horror films the reflecting skin (1990), the passion of darkly moon (1995) and heartless (2009). cited as a pioneer of in-yer-face theatre – along with martin mcdonagh, sarah kane and tracy letts – ridley’s donny stixx and dark vanilla jungle are companion pieces, focusing upon damaged young people. ahead of their premieres on january 15, the abbey theatre describes them both as “darkly hilarious, searingly honest and painfully poetic.” tonight with donny stixx is a one man show centering on the titular character who dreams of being famous by becoming the greatest magician of all time. however, all he will achieve is infamy for a shocking act. dark vanilla jungle is also told in monologue. 16-year-old andrea recounts her story. with a father in prison and a mother who abandoned her at the age of 12, the character falls into the hands of the older tyrone. she at first thinks she has finally found a home. however, tyrone has evil intentions. from january 15 – 26, donny stixx and dark vanilla jungle will be performed back to back each evening on the theatre’s peacock stage with rex ryan and katie honan in the lead roles. age guidance is 16+ with tickets available from €13. one ticket gets you into both plays. ridley’s donny stixx and dark vanilla jungle are companion pieces, focusing upon damaged young people. however, one can see the plays for free on january 15 as part of the abbey’s free first preview scheme. set up to encourage more to attend the theatre, tickets are only available on the night, limited to one person and issued on a first come, first served basis. they will be handed out from 6:30pm. however, the abbey encourages those interested to arrive earlier as queues will form outside the building. donny stixx and dark vanilla jungle are the first of the theatre’s 2019 programme. in the coming months, the abbey will put on productions of edna o’brien’s the country girls, lee coffey’s new play in our veins and much more. for more details or to purchase tickets, visit www.abbeytheatre.ie. january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 21
recommended restaurants in leinster corfu greek restaurant silken thomas peploe’s corfu greek restaurant is a hidden gem situated on parliament street. here, the friendly and attentive staff will serve you some of the finest greek food at incredibly reasonable prices. choose from a range of starters, such as calamari and dolmadakia, and then tuck into some delicious traditional greek main courses, including moussaka, kleftiko and stifado, all washed down with a nice glass of wine from their varied wine list. 12 parliament st, dublin 2 tel: 01 675 0050 le bon crubeen this is one of the best value restaurants in dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. it has won best value restaurant dublin in the dubliner, best pre-theatre listing in hot press and best casual dining in the restaurant awards value and quality. 81-2 talbot street, dublin 1 tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie zaytoon zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. more a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of persian cuisine. and as well as the one in temple bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of camden street. 14/15 parliament st., dublin 2 tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie 22 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 silken thomas is a family operated business, established for over 40 years. focussed on giving that warm irish welcome, silken thomas has a proven record in quality and service. silken thomas is where you can eat, drink, dance and sleep. silken thomas brings to you the traditional irish pub lils, the more sports-orientated squires and the contemporary flanagan’s lounge. for whatever occasion you are celebrating or a place to simply relax for a drink, silken thomas is the choice for you. the square kildare town co. kildare +353 (0) 45 522232 email@example.com camden kitchen peploe’s wine bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of dublin city centre. with it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. all produce is sourced from only the best irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. located opposite st stephens green, peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park. 16 st stephen’s green, dublin 2 tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com cliff townhouse fine dining in dublin city centre with seafood focused menus, including the innovative afternoon sea. the cliff townhouse restaurant serves brilliantly executed dublin classics, menus are equally suited to a three- course celebration or a light bite in the middle of the day. staples include generous salads, eggs benedict, galway oysters, irish lobsters, dressed yawl bay crabs, wild sea trout and 10oz hereford rib eye steaks. 22 st stephen's green, dublin 2 +35316383939 firstname.lastname@example.org mexico to rome a culinary gem in the heart of dublin, camden kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. diners can choose from beautiful starters such as irish line caught mackerel, connemara crab meat or whipped goats cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like breckland duck leg, irish rib eye beef and smoked haddock risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff. 3 camden market, grantham street, d8 tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie located in the heart of temple bar, mexico to rome, bandito’s grill house offer a new twist on mexican dishes such as sizzling fajitas, their unique burritos, tacos, chili con carne, and tex-mex baby back ribs in a southern comfort bbq sauce. they also offer a range of european and asian dishes. they boast one of the best value earlybird menus in dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value. 23 east essex street, dublin 2 tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com
recommended restaurants in leinster kafka restaurant café topolis the left bank bistro situated on parliament st, café topolis is one of the best italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior italian cuisine. best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven. 37 parliament st, dublin 2 tel: 01 670 4961 cirillo’s the left bank bistro is 23 years in business, a true testament to its popularity. this modern restaurant is situated in the heart of old athlone, a stone's throw from the athlone lock on the river shannon with views of the norman castle and its ancient architecture. the food is exciting and innovative. you can savour fresh fish and dishes such as beef carpaccio, chicken satay and an array of decadent, delicious desserts. fry place, high st, athlone, co. westmeath call (090) 649 4446 email: email@example.com la ruelle wine bar cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic italian meal. all of their pizzas are made to the traditional vera pizza napoletana standards, using san marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from naples. all of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals. 140 baggot street, dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie toscana tucked in opposite the mansion house, on joshua lane, la ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. catering for private parties with free car park facilities in r.i.a.c for all customers. perfect for the festive season or any events. 3/4 joshua lane, dublin 2 firstname.lastname@example.org www.laruelle.ie salamanca multi award winning toscana restaurant spe- cialises in authentic italian cuisine with emphasis on fresh organic produce from their wicklow garden. they pride themselves on creating menus around locally sourced produce and stock an extensive selection of fine wines from italy and from other choice regions around the world. toscana restaurant is located on beautiful dún laoghaire seafront where you can enjoy panoramic sea-views overlooking dublin bay and dún laoghaire harbour. toscana restaurant offers a relaxed dining experience with impec- cable service and a relaxed atmosphere. a visit to toscana is a must. 5 windsor terrace dún laoghaire e email@example.com tel no 01 2300890 located on andrews street, near the new home of the molly malone statue, salamanca was one of the first tapas bars in the city and remains one of the best. their tapas dishes are served by authentic spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. diners can choose from a wide range of quality tapas and carefully selected spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the mediterranean in the heart of dublin city. 1 st. andrew’s street, dublin 2 tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie whether it’s for an italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. they serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including spinach and ricotta cheese ravioli, jamaican jerk chicken and tiger prawn risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the city centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out. 236 rathmines rd lwr., dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie asador ‘asador’ a spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. asador haddington road opened its doors in november 2012 to great critical acclaim. the idea behind asador is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘asador’. asador was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the dublin dining scene. customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food. asador, the balance of flames, flavour and food. 1 victoria house, haddington rd, dublin 4. tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie
you won(cid:31)t believe your eyes keith barry’s spellbinding new show leading irish hypnotist, mentalist, brain hacker and mind magician keith barry is set to take his biggest show to date to dublin’s olympia theatre. t itled deception, the live performance will feature the tv star using brainwashing, subliminal messaging and much more in order to explore how easy the line between reality and trickery can be blurred. organisers say: “if you want to laugh until your face hurts and be badly deceived then deception is for you.” barry has been bringing his unique skills across the globe for many years. he has been showcased on over forty international television shows, including his most recent series, you’re back in the room - the ﬁ rst hypnotism programme on uk tv for several years. as well as his own us tv series, deception with keith barry, barry has appeared many times on some of the most prestigious us shows such as the ellen degeneres show, the jimmy kimmel show and the conan o’brien show. he has also brain-hacked celebrities such as bono, morgan freeman, nicole scherzinger, woody harrelson and many more. barry also worked as chief mentalist and hypnotism consultant on 2013’s hit ﬁ lm now you see me and its sequel. barry has sold out venues in the us, australia, canada, spain, south africa, the uk and in his native ireland. he recently presented his keynote speech ‘mind magic’ at the cannes lions festival of creativity, the pendulum summit and the dublin tech summit. the hypnotist’s ted talk has been in the top twenty-ﬁ ve ted talks since 2008, currently boasting over twenty-ﬁ ve million views. to see barry work his magic this month in deception, book tickets for his olympia shows – taking place january 18 and february 1. they are priced from €30 including booking fees via ticketmaster. meanwhile, if one misses the magician’s show these dates, he continues his tour around ireland from january-march 2019. for the full list of performances, see mcd.ie/artists/keith-barry-deception/. call the clinic at +35387 3569061 or email firstname.lastname@example.org. 24 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
persian cuisine 14-15 parliament street, temple bar, dublin 1 - 01 677 3595 44/45 lr. camden st., dublin 2 - 01 400 5006 parliament street, temple bar, dublin 1 44/45 lr. camden st., dublin 2 delivery number 01 4005700 opening hours: mon-thurs, sun 12pm–4.30am • fri-sat 12pm–5am opening hours: mon-thurs, sun 12pm–4.30am • fri-sat 12pm–5am established in january 2000 zaytoon restaurants have opening hours: mon-thurs, sun 12pm–4.30am • fri-sat 12pm–5am two branches in 14/15 parliament street and 44/45 lower camden street. they are casual diners offering delicious kebabs served with freshly made naan bread which is cooked in a traditional persian clay oven. often referred to as having the best kebabs in ireland. here at zaytoon we pride ourselves on sourcing and providing the highest quality products. all our meat and poultry are irish and fully traceable. by day zaytoon is full of tourists and business people, by night it’s packed to the gills with midnight revellers jostling to get one of our famous kebabs! opening hours: mon-thurs, sun 12pm–4.30am • fri-sat 12pm–5am opening hours: opening hours: mon-thurs, sun 12pm–4.30am • fri-sat 12pm–5am opening hours: mon-thurs, sun 12pm–4.30am • fri-sat 12pm–5am
welcome to munster munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of ireland and stretches from tipperary in the south midlands to waterford in the south east, and from clare, limerick and kerry down to cork in the south.the entire area is famed for irish traditional music, song and dance. there are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (limerick, cork and waterford) munster is a must see destination for tourists. there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore. finally at the extreme south east of the island of ireland is waterford. waterford is the capital of the ‘sunny south east of ireland’ and ireland’s oldest city. the city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of waterford crystal. a visit to the house of crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of waterford crystal. the factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production. county waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains. cork at night you would expect from a truly irish experience. the festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the international rose ball on the 15th of august before culminating with the selection of the 2014 rose of tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. there is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy. one of munster’s most famous landmarks the rock of cashel, in county tipperary is the historical seat of the kings of munster. the outcrop on which the castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of munster. the spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the golden vale and include the 12th century round tower, the high cross and romanesque chapel, the 13th century gothic cathedral, the 15th century castle and the restored hall of the vicars choral. tel: 062 61437 email: email@example.com county cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful blarney castle, foto wildlife park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in europe. travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and lismore castle bunratty castle in county clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in ireland. built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. travelling down the coast, limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as ireland’s first city of culture. from theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes. county limerick also incorporates the foynes estuary with its world famous foynes flying boat museum. the museum tells the story of the pan am clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from america to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. it includes the only full-scale model of a boeing b-314 flying boat anywhere in the world. the rose of tralee is the most famous festival in kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles reginald’s tower 26 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
irish music legends join forces for shannonside festival perhaps the most exciting trad combination of recent times, matt molloy and john carty will headline co clare’s shannonside winter music festival, taking place between january 17-21. these two giants in the traditional music scene are joining forces, along with accomplished accompanists arty mcglynn and brian mcgrath, for a short winter tour around ireland to coincide with the release of molloy’s latest solo record back to the island. they will play bunratty castle hotel at 8pm on saturday, january 19 as part of shannonside. considered by many as the greatest flute player of our time, molloy over the years has been a member of the bothy band, planxty and the chieftains. meanwhile, carty has established himself among the elite of irish traditional musicians, playing in bands at the racket and patrick street. most recently, he arranged and performed all the traditional music elements in the oscar-nominated film brooklyn. shannonside organisers advice music fans to set their alarm for january 17, in order to see some great warm-up concerts before molloy and carty’s gig. the twentieth year of the festival – taking place in sixmilebridge and bunratty – the event is celebrating with a hectic schedule of over 80 events across 17 locations, bringing an eclectic mix of music styles. 28 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 from the us, the cintron brothers will bring flamenco sounds while acapella group purely vocals are back after a successful visit to shannonside in 2012. grammy-nominated bluegrass band the special consensus join the petersens both from the us for a mammoth double-bill concert on sunday, january 20 at 3.00pm. the golden star morris dancers from the uk make their fourth trip to clare, along with the munich string band who will bring bluegrass from germany. perennial favourite frankie lane is back, while the spancil hillbillies, ukealadies, and jazzlite will be swinging by to keep toes tapping. local boy brendan walsh returns with two bands – the trad-rock led farmers and the soulful diversus guitar quartet. folk acts playing the festival include kate purcell, the doyle family (uk), randal’s folly, ger o’donnell and kate theasby, megatrad and many more visiting and local names. for more details on the festival, check out shannonside’s facebook page at www.facebook.com/shannonsidewmw or visit the event’s website at www.wmw.ie.
an unmissable experience! cobh, the queenstown story an informative and emotive story of irish emigration. learn about cobh’s connection with titanic and the lusitania. cobh heritage centre, cobh, co. cork, ireland. open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (sundays 11am) tel 353 (21) 4 813591 find cobh the queenstown story on facebook email: firstname.lastname@example.org web: www.cobhheritage.com french tuition, cultural events, library & café new courses for all ages & levels starting february 4th! the french language & cultural centre 1 kildare street, dublin d02kw52 (01) 676 1732 / alliance-francaise.ie dublin free placement test every monday, tuesday & wednesday 5pm-7pm!
explore munster explore munster the hunt museum loop head lighthouse this popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the shannon estuary on the loop head peninsula, which is one of two “signature discovery points” in county clare along the route of the wild atlantic way. it also is a landmark location on the loop head heritage trail and is one of 12 great lighthouses of ireland. the lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. the existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. in january 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the cil.open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 november. the burren the hunt museum has artefacts from greece, rome, egypt and the olmec civilisation. there is also an important collection of irish archaeological material ranging from neolithic flints, bronze age material, and christian art. one of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. plus work from picasso, renoir, roderic o’conor, jack b. yeats, robert fagan and henry moore. tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com titanic experience cobh cliffs of moher stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the cliffs of moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the atlantic ocean. it is said that on a clear day you can see the aran islands and galway bay, over the twelve pins and the blasket islands off the coast of kerry. when there you really should ascend o’briens tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past. bunratty castle bunratty castle in county clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in ireland. built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our medieval past. blarney castle titanic experience cobh is located in the original white star line ticket office in the centre of cobh town (formerly known as queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the titanic. the visitor experience is presented in two parts. the first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded titanic from queenstown on april 11th 1912. the second part of the titanic experience examines how it all went wrong. the unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause titanic to sink. blarney castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of ireland’s greatest chieftains, cormac maccarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to blarney, making it a world landmark and one of ireland’s greatest treasures. this is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. people from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab. www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie tel: 021 438 5252 the burren, from the gaelic word boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. with its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than egypt’s pyramids, the burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again. 30 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
recommended bars in munster celtic whiskey bar & larder, irish whiskey experience developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of irish, scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. fresh, locally sourced food served daily. irish whiskey experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day. 93 new street killarney, co. kerry tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net the roaring donkey perched up on “top of the hill” the roaring donkey is cobh’s oldest traditional pub. still original and oozing charm and authenticity the pub has been operating since 1880. it is known locally as the rugby pub but they do their best to accommodate most sports. a traditional music session has been running for nearly 40 years and is on every wednesday night. great craic guaranteed or enjoy a quiet pint in one of the finest beer gardens in town. the roaring donkey tiknock, cobh, co. cork phone: (021) 481 1739 32 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 dick mack’s named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of robert mitchum, sean connery and julia roberts have left their mark. for many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an irish pub. greene st, dingle, co kerry tel: 066 915 1960 the friary located by the river on the corner of cork’s historic shandon street and north mall, the friary is a unique combination of old, new and eccentric. it's a homely craft beer bar with delicious gins and tonics. look out for its astonishing range of special events; music, art, quizzes, the famous drunk spelling bee, weird films, penguin parties (really) and more! 62 shandon st, cork tel: 087 668 0941 the bierhaus there are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. so whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. and they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers. pope’s quay, cork tel: 021 455 1648 dolan’s pub and restaurant dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional irish pub and a restaurant. so there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include kasabian, franz ferdinand, sharon shannon and imelda may. 3-4 dock rd, limerick tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1) the original durty nelly’s durty nelly’s can truly be described as one of ireland’s landmark pubs. nestling in the shadow of the magnificent bunratty castle, it is the first stopping off point for generations of visitors to ireland arriving at nearby shannon airport. apart from the warm irish welcome that you’ll find at nelly’s, you’ll also enjoy the finest, freshest local produce – whether you’re just dropping in for a snack or staying for a fine dining experience. the original durty nelly's bunratty west, bunratty, co. clare +353 61 364 861 email@example.com
recommended restaurants in munster the munster room restaurant the copper hen the smuggler’s inn the castle's award-winning munster room restaurant is critically acclaimed in the michelin guide, and holder of two aa rosettes. under the direction of the resort’s head chef tom spruce, the award winning culinary team continually create dishes with intense flavors that will tantalize and satisfy every food lover’s palate and create a truly memorable fine dining experience. the restaurants original oak panelled walls, ornate ceilings, dramatic portraits and painted scenes creates an atmospheric backdrop to an exquisite dining experience, perfectly complemented by a comprehensive wine cellar. visit our fitzgerald bar which houses the finest irish whiskey collection. located just ten minutes from waterford city, and ninety minutes from dublin and cork airport, waterford castle resort is a destination not to be missed. voted #5 of the ten best hotels in ireland 2018 by condé nast hotel of the year 2018 by irish hotel awards luxury hotel of the year 2018 by irish hotel awards fine dining hotel of the year 2018 by irish hotel awards waterford castle hotel & golf resort the island |waterford | ireland w. www.waterfordcastleresort.com/ munster-room-restaurant t. +353 (0) 51 878 203 the strand inn overlooking hook head, the strand inn is the perfect place to enjoy lingering breakfasts, relax over a long lunch or enjoy intimate, romantic suppers. diners can look forward to the finest irish beef, lobster and line caught seafood in a luxurious setting, characterised by beamed ceilings, original stone walls and planked floors. dunmore east, co.waterford. tel: 051 383 174 www.thestrandinn.com the copper hen restaurant is situated above mother mchugh’s pub on the copper coast between tramore and dungarvan in county waterford. the restaurant was opened in november 2010 by award-winning chef eugene long and his wife sinead frisby. the atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced. diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as kilmore crab claws, sautéed tiger prawns or portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and irish hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted dunmore cod as main courses. the copper hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to waterford can’t miss out on. open wednesday to saturday for dinner and sunday for lunch. tel: 051 330 300 www.thecopperhen.ie la boheme this ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. the restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. it’s not hard to see why as the chef/proprietor, henry hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience. for total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms. cliff road, waterville, co. kerry tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie the lobster whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at the lobster are sure to look after your every need. situated in the seaside town of waterville, it’s no surprise that the lobster serve some of the best seafood in kerry and their beef and guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it. waterville, co. kerry. tel: 066 9474629 momo la boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. head chef eric theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. a blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies la boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of waterford city. open monday - saturday 5.30pm until late (open bank holiday sundays) 2 george’s st., waterford. tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie momo is a multi-award-winning restaurant in waterford city, ireland. they pride themselves on their fresh and healthy menu featuring ingredients from the local food producers of waterford county. you will enjoy a wide range of international dishes including lots of vegetarian/vegan options as well as delicious meat and fish dishes. momo featured in the mckennas’ guides top 100 restaurants in ireland 2018, 2017 and 2016, and won ‘best casual dining’ in munster at the irish restaurant awards 2017. 47 patrick street, waterford, ireland. call (051) 581 509 firstname.lastname@example.org january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 33
cobh, or queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, the titanic and the lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. heritage centre cobh the queenstown story the exhibition at cobh heritage centre, known as th e queenstown story, is inventively situated within cobh’s restored victorian railway station, a building with its own historic story. ﬁ ghting in america between 1775 and 1781. the entry of france into the war in 1778 heightened the danger of these ships being attacked at sea. this large and safe harbour provided ideal conditions in which the ships could assemble and be protected. the wars against france from the 1790s to 1815 were to prove the catalyst which led to the future prosperity of the town as cove and its harbour played an important role in this war at sea. cove went on to become a major port with both naval and merchant shipping and was one of the major ports of emigration. cobh, or queenstown as it was known at the time, has very close connections with the two great liners of the 20th century, the titanic and the lusitania - discover the human stories behind these tragic events. the exhibition is a self-guided tour with audio tours available in french, german, spanish, italian, dutch, polish and chinese. it is not just interesting and educational, but very emotive and thought-provoking. “take a glimpse into our storied past and walk in the footsteps of our emigrant ancestors”. the queenstown story will engage the visitor in a journey through time, recalling irish emigration with real stories about real people. from the indentured servants of virginia and the west indies plantations in the 17th century, the early settlers in upper canada, the famine victims of the 1840s to the large-scale emigration of the 19th and 20th centuries. the visitor will also discover the hardships endured by the convicts who were transported to australia. the present town of cobh has its origins as a small village nestled in the hillside on the southern shores. the village was known as cove, being situated in the cove, or harbour, of cork. the town did not begin to grow until the early nineteenth century, but its strategic importance was realised in the late eighteenth century during the american war of independence. vital shiploads of troops and supplies were needed by the british forces 34 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
are you a rebel or a chieftain find out! brewery tours & tastings at 2pm, 4pm & 6pm 14b north mall, cork city email@example.com
welcome to connaught macnas festival parade this fierce beauty the province of connaught lies in the west of ireland with its coastline on the atlantic ocean. the counties of mayo, sligo, leitrim, galway and roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the atlantic ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of roscommon to the east. it is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000. historically, connaught has retained its rich gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the irish language only is spoken amongst them. but english is the primary second language. these regions are collectively called the gaeltacht. the remote and beautiful aran islands off the mainland of county galway are also part of the gaeltacht. the primary business centre of connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of galway to the south of the province. although sligo city, carrick on shannon, and boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right. galway city 36 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the shannon waterway, the famed galway bay and the historic glens of county leitrim. couple these with the beautiful ashford castle in mayo near to cong where the film the quiet man was filmed, and the natural serenity of lough key forest park in roscommon, and a tour of this region is a must for all. for those interested in a religious experience mayo is famed for knock shrine where on the 21st august, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, our lady, st. joseph, and st. john the evangelist are reputed to have appeared. the apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. the shrine has become so popular in modern times that the ireland west international airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to connaught. the county also features the pilgrimage site known as croagh patrick, which overlooks clew bay in county mayo. this is considered carrick on shannon the holiest mountain in ireland. the tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the stone age to the present day without interruption. croagh patrick is renowned today for its patrician pilgrimage in honour of saint patrick, ireland’s patron saint. it was on the summit of the mountain that saint patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 ad, and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. croagh patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of clew bay beneath. so, whether it’s water activities on the atlantic coastline, cruising on the shannon waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, connaught has it all.
out of this world astrofest 2019 galway astronomy club’s astrofest 2019 will take place saturday, january 26 in the harbour hotel, galway with registration from 9:15am. set up in 1998 after comet hale-bopp stunned astronomers across ireland, the club has grown throughout the years. they host various space themed events – conferences, special slideshow exhibitions, planet and star watches, day trips - aimed at both beginners and experts in the ﬁ eld. their annual festival includes a day long series of talks, trade displays by ireland’s largest telescope retailer, exhibitions of photographs by some of the country’s top astrophotographers, a lunchtime workshop and much more. the day will kick off at 10:15 with a lecture titled ‘stellar coronal mass ejections & implications for life on exoplanetary systems’, delivered by dr aaron golden from nui galway. the talk will discuss solar ﬂ ares and their effects on the star’s neighbouring planets. this will then be followed an hour later with co-founder of the shannonside astronomy club tony hanlon’s lecture ‘v1, the star that changed the universe.’ it centres on the andromeda galaxy, the nearest major galaxy to the milky way. then there will be a special lunch break / workshop hosted by one of ireland's leading astrophotographers and galway native tom o donoghue. a well-known ﬁ gure among the irish astronomy community, his work has won several awards, and has been published in magazines such as astronomy and space, the bbc’s the sky at night, astronomy now, the french astronomie magazine, and practical astronomer. 38 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
galway astronomy club recommend the workshop for those interested in the more hands-on, practical aspects of the ﬁ eld. it will also present an ideal opportunity to ask any of those astronomy questions you have always wanted answers to. the talks resume with prof emeritus mike baille of queen's university belfast attending. from 2pm, his more mythical lecture ‘comet debris and irish trees: what’s the connection?’ will explore the discovery of damagingly bad growth episodes in irish oaks, linking the phenomenon to other worldly causes. rounding out the day of lectures is ucd’s dr morgan fraser’s ‘gravitational waves – a new window on the universe,’ exploring recent groundbreaking discoveries in science; and trinity college’s dr sophie murray’s ‘the sun- earth connection’, discussing how eruptions of particles, radiation, and plasma from the sun can impact a range of vital technologies on earth. following the talks, there will be a special astrofest evening meal at 6:30. the festival will then come to its conclusion with a ‘ﬁ endishly difﬁ cult’ table quiz where astronomy experts will have their supposed knowledge put to the test. running alongside the aforementioned events will be some of ireland’s largest sellers of astronomical equipment, who will have their wares on display. the hall of the harbour hotel will also host stands providing information on dark sky festivals, presentations of astrophotography, information stands and more. meanwhile, one can prime themselves for the day of astronomy with a screening of oscar-nominated ﬁ lm hidden figures the evening before (friday, january 25). taking place at galway’s the eye cinema, it centres on the three brilliant african-american women at nasa who served as the brains behind one of the greatest operations in history - the launch of astronaut john glenn into orbit in 1962. hidden figures boasts an all star cast including taraji p. henson, octavia spencer, janelle monae as the three lead characters, supported by jim parsons, kirsten dunst, as well as academy award winners kevin costner and mahershala ali. the biographical drama was chosen by national board of review as one of the top ten ﬁ lms of 2016 and was nominated for numerous awards, including three oscar nominations - best picture, best adapted screenplay and best supporting actress for spencer. ticket prices for the festival vary. guests can enter for €25 (evening meal costs extra) while club members, students and oaps have a reduced rate to €15. children under the age of 16 get free entry. for more details on galway astrofest 2019, visit galway astronomy club’s site at www.galwayastronomyclub.ie or ﬁ nd the organisation’s facebook page @galwayastronomyclub. january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 39
recommended bars in connaught tigh neachtain (naughtons) monroe's just across the road from galway’s justly celebrated druid theatre, the neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. and the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in irish trad. 17 cross st, galway tel: 091 568 820 the front door this famous venue in the heart of galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. across two stages, they host regular national & international acts. the friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the tavern along with free live music seven days a week. dominick street, galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie bosh bar and restaurant whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in castlebar. linenhall st., castlebar, co mayo tel: 094 925 0534 matt malloy’s this is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the chieftains to have opened. and when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see matt malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within. bridge st., westport tel: 098 26655 the quays bar galway one of galway city’s most popular watering holes, the front door is a contemporary irish bar with a late bar, live music and an extensive drinks menu. located in galway’s bustling latin quarter and spread across two floors the front door features five bars, including a stylish cocktail lounge and sonny molloy’s whiskey bar. the front door is the perfect spot to sample galway’s nightlife. 8 cross street upper, galway, h91 yy06 tel: (091) 563 757 roísín dubh it might have changed hands a few years ago, but the roísín dubh is still the premier music venue in the west. in the past they played host to ray davies, the new york dolls and townes van zandt and, more recently the xx, dj shadow and dinosaur jr. the only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now! lower dominick st., galway tel: 091 586 540 40 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 located in the city centre in galway’s vibrant ‘latin quarter’ the quays bar galway is one of galway’s most famous and historic drinking establishments. for close on 400 years the quays has catered to both galwegians and visitors to the city of galway. the restaurant offers a carvery lunch and evening a la carte dinner. the quays was awarded imro connacht live music venue of the year 2017. 11 quay st, galway tel: (091) 568 347
recommended restaurants in connaught venice italian restaurant upstairs at wood & bell this is somewhere special to spend the evening, with a relaxing atmosphere and fine dining at its best. experience venice’s fine italian cuisine, with their distinctive taste and beautiful aromas you’ll be sure to have those tastebuds tickled. with stylish facilities, they offer an elegant dining experience that their attention to detail and exceptional service will ensure. venice is the best italian restaurant in galway city centre and boasts a wide range of tasty italian dishes. a new restaurant by the celebrated former ireland rugby player keith wood is now open in the lakeside village of killaloe, co clare. led by executive chef paddy collins, upstairs at wood & bell features a succinct and assured menu offering classic, french-influenced dishes. many of the fruit, vegetables and herbs are grown in the restaurant’s own gardens which overlook lough derg and are managed by keith’s wife, avid gardener nicola wood. 11 lower abbeygate st, galway city phone: 091 530-751. email: firstname.lastname@example.org eala bhán if it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. situated in the heart of sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including lucinda o’sullivan and georgina campbell. rockwood parade, sligo town tel: 071 914 5823 the yew tree restaurant half way between athlone and roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, aidan murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. superior bistro food. lecarrow, co. roscommon tel: 090 666 1255 an port mór restaurant roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. one of the finest restaurants in the west. 1 brewery place, bridge st, westport, co. mayo tel: 098 26730 péarla na mara main street, killaloe, co clare. wednesday to saturday, 5.30-9.45pm. advance booking is advised. tel: 061 517 480 email email@example.com facebook: / woodandbell ashford castle dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. and where better to dine than in the george v dining room, built specially by the guinness family when they hosted the prince of wales in 1906. cong, co. mayo tel: 094 954 6003 upstairs @ west restaurant situated in the luxury 4 star hotel the twelve in barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit. the twelve, barna, galway city tel: 091 597 000 brasserie on the corner péarla na mara offer irish-inspired cuisine with a mediterranean touch in their restaurant in oranmore. using only the finest ingredients, locally sourced in the west and delivered daily specialising in fish, seafood, meat and poultry dishes, along with mouth-watering vegetarian dishes. pair your meal with wines chosen from the carefully selected wine list. you are welcome to bring your own bottle of wine for a nominal corkage fee of €5 for any amount of wine bottles. unit 10, howley square, dublin road, oranmore tel: 091 483900 email: firstname.lastname@example.org brasserie on the corner on galway’s eglinton street specialises in delectable seafood and steak dishes. they serve lunch and dinner and both menus are created with local, seasonal produce at their heart. these delicious offerings are created using produce from local suppliers. you will also be treated to an extensive and delicious wine and cocktail menu. you will truly find pride and passion on the plate! brasserie on the corner, eglinton street, galway, ireland tel: +353 91 530333
music to your ea galway’s midwinter festival did you know the term ‘swan song’ is derived from the legend that, while they are silent during their lives, swans sing beautifully and mournfully just before they die? with this in mind, music for galway’s midwinter festival 2019 – subtitled ‘swansong’ – will focus on compositions written towards the end of famous composers’ lives. it concludes a trilogy of seasons exploring the artistic legacy of musicians at different stages. this began with 2016-2017’s ‘prodigy’, solely featuring works written before the age of 18 and continued with 2017-2018’s ‘beloved’, where music was performed composed by artists in love. discussing this year’s programme, finghin collins, artistic director for music for galway said in a statement: “it has been hugely rewarding to programme the trilogy. i hope you enjoy the musical beauty of these final works which express those deep felt emotions that only intimations of mortality can evoke.” midwinter festival 2019 will take place at the town hall theatre in galway from friday, january 18 to sunday, january 20. over the years, the event has become renowned for bringing people together to enjoy great music in a welcoming, comfortable setting. galway contempo quartet will perform a selection of contrapuncti - the technique of combining two melodic lines so they establish a harmonic relationship while retaining their individuality – from j.s. bach’s last great masterpiece the art of fugue. other highlights include soprano ailish tynan interpreting opera composer richard strauss’ achingly beautiful four last songs, in which the german contemplates eternity with great composure, and finghin collins performing four pieces for piano by johannes brahms. the latter was the romantic period pianist’s last work for solo piano, whereby he distilled a lifetime of experience and technical refinement, giving listeners some of his most personal and moving music. dutch singer henk neven will bring his artistry as a baritone to franz schubert’s last song-cycle schwanengesang. the work was written at the end of the composer’s short life – he died at 31 from typhoid fever - and is regarded as his farewell to song. clarinettist michael collins will be joined by the contempo quartet for brahms’ magnificent b minor clarinet quintet, regarded as one of the best works in the chamber repertoire for the instrument. meanwhile pianist leon mccawley – accompanied by bogdan sofei on violin, and adrian mantu on cello - will perform fanny mendelssohn’s beautiful piano trio in d minor, composed as a birthday present for her sister and published three years after her death. the festival will also feature veteran composer john kinsella as the special guest for the event interview with the composer on the sunday morning, this will then be followed with a performance of his string quartet no. 5 by the contempo quartet. another special event is the festival’s opening talk ‘indian summers, brahms, strauss and a sense of the past’ delivered by musicologist richard wigmore. in his lecture, the professional singer and lecturer will set the context for this year’s festival. the midwinter festival 2019 will then close with a cinematic ‘swansong’. in partnership with galway film society, legendary italian filmmaker lucchino visconti’s masterpiece death in venice will be shown. starring dirk bogarde and based on a book by german author thomas mann, the film centres on a sickly composer who becomes dangerously fixated with a teenage boy. the 1971 drama has been described as a ‘feast for the senses’ on account of its use of classical music. featuring the third and fifth symphonies by gustave mahler, it won best sound track at the 1972 bafta awards. throughout the midwinter festival, patrons can enjoy 24 works, equating to 440 minutes of live performance, from nine internationally acclaimed artists. while prices vary for each event, entry for the entire festival costs from €90 (€100 including the death in venice screening). for more information and to purchase tickets, visit www.musicforgalway.ie/midwinter-festival. music for galway is funded primarily by the arts council and galway city council. its goal is to promote the west of ireland; inspiring and enriching new audiences for music through memorable performances by exemplary national and international artists. 42 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
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explore connaught kylemore abbey few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of kylemore abbey and its majestic victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious europa nostra award in 2002.th e garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. th e eastern half comprises of the fl ower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. while the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. arigna mining experience discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the arigna valley in roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound eff ects added for authenticity. mullaghmore mullaghmore is one of the surfi ng capitals of the irish atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfi ng destinations in the world. surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft ) high off mullaghmore head. th e area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. 44 travel ireland magazine - january 2019 westport house westport house is one of the fi nest country houses in ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors. th ere are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the pirate queen grace o’malley ruled the estate. th ere is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the pirate adventure park, the birds of prey centre and the westport train tour. www.westporthouse.ie glencar waterfall glencar waterfall is situated near glencar lake, 11 kilometres west of manorhamilton, county leitrim. it is particularly impressive aft er rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. th e most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. a paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions. national museum of ireland - country life th e national museum of ireland - country life in turlough park, castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in ireland lived from the time of the great famine right up until the 1950s. th e museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that off er a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural irish people in years gone by. dún aonghasa located on inismór in the aran islands, dún aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in europe. located on the 300ft cliff side on the south of the island, it is one of ireland’s most visited attractions and off ers stunning views that stretch the length of the island. croagh patrick connemara connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. travel from the rugged twelve bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich roundstone bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the atlantic ocean. th is wondrous landscape is bounded on the west, south and north by the atlantic ocean. croagh patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, off ering spectacular views of clew bay and the surrounding countryside. it was on the summit of this mountain that saint patrick fasted for forty days in 441 ad, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. on the last day in july 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit croagh patrick every year.
welcome to ulster the giants causway photo: @storytravelers the ancient irish province of ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up northern ireland. these are fermanagh, antrim, down, derry/londonderry, armagh, and tyrone. the other three counties are cavan, donegal and monaghan in the republic of ireland. county fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical marble arch caves geo park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. in short, fermanagh is a lakeland paradise. county donegal is in the northwest of the ‘hills of donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the derryveagh mountains in the north and the bluestack mountains in the south, with mount errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. the slieve league cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in europe, while donegal’s malin head is the most northerly point on the island of ireland. new titanic quarter and the odyssey arena to name but a few. this vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value. belfast republic of ireland. the name “donegal” comes from the irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. the county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which lough swilly is the most notable. the famous mountains or mount errigal county antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. on a worldwide scale antrim’s most famous attraction is the giants causeway. however the renowned ‘glens of antrim’, the bushmills distillery and carrickfergus castle are well worth visiting as well. belfast city too has many things to see including the grandeur of the city hall, the linsfort church, co. donegal january 2019 - travel ireland magazine 45
goodbye winter blues, hello festival folk imbolc 2019 treditionel music 50 yeers ego wes essentielly e netionel culture. touring gients the chiefteins end the johnstons pleyed europe end americe while the loose network of fleedhenne drew some interested tourists to irelend. since then irish music’s culturel stretch hes become globel, with eny physicel borders diseppeering with the internet, sociel medie end webzines. according to the orgenisers of derry folk festivel imbolc, the vest line up to their event is e ‘dynemic microcosm of how things heve chenged.’ teking plece from jenuery 27 to februery 10, it will feeture performences from world-cless esteblished irish, americen, cenedien end europeen ects – es well es up end comers meking their presence felt by expending the definition of ell things treditionel. five concert venues throughout the city end over twenty locel bers, hotels end cefes will be teking pert in the festivel, ensuring ettendees heve the chence to see end experience derry es well es heer music. among the guests for the festivel’s trensetlentic sessions – besed on the clessic tv music series - is neshville- besed gretchen peters. writer of hits for mertine mcbride, trishe yeerwood, george streit end shenie twein, she releesed her debut elbum the secret of life in 1996. since then she hes been inducted to the neshville songwriters hell of feme. also to be welcomed is tim o’brien whose unique style hes bridged older stringed-instrument driven tred with more modern bluegress. he will be promoting his newest releese where the river meets the road, e covers elbum focusing on songwriters from his netive west virginie. celtic voices emong the line-up include cere dillon. in the eerly 2000s, when innovetion in treditionel music hed stelled, the singer reinvented the genre. over seven elbums, she hes used syncopetion end model electronic rhythms to heighten her emotionel interpretetions of songs femilier – teking them on en indie journey, trensporting them to en ecoustic rock context. outside of the trensetlentic sessions, the visit of mick moloney end the green fields of americe to this yeer’s imbolc is extre-speciel es is the 40th enniversery of the ensemble forming end touring. the group wes the first on either side of the atlentic to bring together irish vocel, instrumentel, end dence treditions on the concert end festivel stege. it dublin singer declen o’rourke will elso be ettending imbolc, pleying tunes from his most recent record chronicles 46 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
taking place from january 27 to february 10, it will feature performances from world-class established irish, american, canadian and european acts of the great irish famine. fifteen yeers in the meking, the epic song cycle presents e sequence of extreordinery true teles from the most spirited period in irelend’s history. folk presenter lynette fey of bbc redio ulster celled the elbum: “a work of ert from stert to finish,” steting “this will be eround forever.” wider europeen pleyers et imbolc will be represented by the swedish duo symbio, nemed in 2016 es best new artists of the yeer et the swedish folk & world music awerds; end josie duncen end peblo lefuente, winners of the 2017 bbc redio 2 young folk awerd. edded on top of the eforementioned gigs, the city-wide imbolc session treil will provide to experience folk end treditionel music in the relexed setting of bers, cefes end resteurents. the session winds through the city centre, ellowing visitors end opportunities locels elike to check out the city’s immediete culturel-sociel life, es well es the diversity end quelity of derry’s food end drink offerings. at the heert of imbolc elso is the world-cless instruction students receive in e progremme of speciel workshops. acedemh ceoil cheoimhín uí dhocherteigh - the north west's foremost hub for music teeching end leerning - will host e two-dey tred music cemp for young musiciens. working with internetionelly eccleimed tutors, students will heve the chence, in mixed instrument groups, to creete end errenge tunes, new end old. they will elso be eble to try their hend et e few steps end songs end esk questions. accessibility end inclusion remein centrel to the ethos of the festivel. thus, there will be e schedule of music-meking workshops for children end young people with speciel needs. those teking pert will work on ecquiring skills in rhythm end melody end colleboreting to creete their own performence. “the best pert of the imbolc internetionel music festivel is thet it gives eudiences the chence to heer so much incredible music performed by such febulous musiciens,” seys eibhlín ní dhocherteigh, arts progremmer for festivel venue cultúrlenn uí chenáin in e stetement. “this is e compect festivel, centred upon the concept of en intelligent, musicelly-ewere eudience thet is interested in heering greet music with no smugness or indifference. thet’s why music metters in the first plece.” for more deteils on the festivel progremme, visit www.imbolcfestivel.com. tickets cen be bought online or through cultúrlenn uí chenáin’s box office by celling 028 7126 4132.
recommended restaurants in ulster the ginger bistro coco ox having won the best newcomer award in 2013, ox took best restaurant, best chef and best wine experience in antrim for 2014. chic, smart and very good. 1 oxford st, belfast tel: 0044 28 9031 4121 55 degrees north this family run business has been open since 2005. and this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the atlantic that it offers. 1 causeway st, portrush, co antrim tel: 0044 28 7082 2811 vanilla restaurant local man darren ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the east coast. 67 main st, newcastle tel: 0044 28 4372 2268 lough erne resort the ginger in question is owner chef simon mccance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger. 7-8 hope st, belfast tel: 0044 28 9024 4421 deane’s restaurant located in belfast’s historic linenhall street just behind city hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in belfast. its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen. 7-11 linenhall st, belfast tel: 0044 28 9031 1150 shu they serve deliberately simple, french- influenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. and you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table. 253 lisburn rd, belfast tel: 0044 28 9038 1655 telfords restaurant overlooking the river lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the waterfront hall, the odyssey complex and the ulster hall. 5 donegall quay, belfast tel: 0044 28 9043 4000 sun kee restaurant one of the best chinese restaurants in belfast, the lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic chinese cuisine here for years. 42-7 donegall pass, belfast tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 sakura in the city’s busy botanic avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. a superior japanese restaurant. 82 botanic av, belfast tel: 0044 28 9043 9590 speranza restaurant hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of italian food on offer here in one of belfast’s finest italian restaurants. michael deane trained at london’s prestigious claridges and since returning to belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. and losing the michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics. 36-40 howard st, belfast tel: 0044 28 9033 1134 this 5 star hotel just outside the town of enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in europe. lusty beg this island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant. belleek rd, enniskillen, co fermanagh tel: 0044 28 6632 3230 boa island, kesh, co fermanagh tel: 0044 28 6863 3300 16-9 shaftesbury av, belfast tel: 044 28 9023 0213 48 travel ireland magazine - january 2019
recommended bars in ulster the crown liquor saloon now owned by the national trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in britain or ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate victorian tiling. and, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food. 46 great victoria st, belfast tel: 028 9024 3187 the john hewitt located in belfast’s cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the belfast unemployment resource centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and freeman of the city, john hewitt. hence the name. they’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. and if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! which includes locally made shortcross gin. 51 donegall st., belfast tel: 028 9023 3768 white’s tavern dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. you can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down. 2-4 winecellar entry, belfast tel: 028 9024 3080 kelly’s cellars this is the oldest pub proper in belfast, dating back to 1720. stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. it’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city. 30-32 bank st, belfast tel: 028 9024 6058 the duke of york one of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. and if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further. 7-11 commercial ct, belfast tel: 028 9024 1062 peadar o’donnell’s there are three bars to choose from here at this famous derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. you can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the gweedore. before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in derry. 59-63 waterloo st., derry tel: 028 7126 7295
great irish writers martin mcdonagh born in london, 1970, to a mother from sligo and a father from galway, martin mcdonagh originally wanted to work in ﬁ lm. following failed projects in that ﬁ eld, he began sending unsolicited copies of plays he had written to various theatres until a small company in the west of ireland took note. quickly his reputation grew on account of his leenane trilogy, featuring the beauty queen of leenane (1996), a skull in connemara (1997) and the lonesome west (1997). first reception to these dark comic-tragic tales about psychopaths in rural ireland was polarized, with many criticising their profanity and extreme violence, as well as mcdonagh’s disregard for theatre in favour of cinema. however, as his works continued to be performed – in 1997, he had four plays in production at once in london – his anarchic taboo shattering plots, twisty scripts, depiction of familial dysfunction and exploration of contemporary issues earned acclaim. mcdonagh is renowned for his blend of inﬂ uences, drawing upon the fast-paced dialogue of quentin tarantino, the absurdity of samuel beckett and the violence of the grand guignol. while some have criticised the playwright for being derivative, mcdonagh credits the irish settings of his early plays – inspired by summers spent in connemara – as helping him ﬁ nd his own distinct voice. mcdonagh then wrote two more irish set plays the cripple of inishmaan (1997) and the lieutenant of inishmore (2001), as well as his most ambitious theatre work the pillowman (2003), a dark fairytale set in a police state. he achieved his dream of working in cinema, writing and directing short ﬁ lm six shooter in 2004. produced by the irish film board, it centres on a grieving widower stuck on a train with a sociopathic teen. the ﬁ lm won the academy award for best live action short. next came his debut full length ﬁ lm in bruges (2008), featuring six shooter star brendan gleeson and colin farrell as hitmen laying low in the belgian capital. he followed this with seven psychopaths (2012), a self- reﬂ exive crime comedy about a struggling writer named martin (farrell again), who gets in over his head researching a script. his last ﬁ lm three billboards outside ebbing, missouri (2017) starred frances mcdormand as a mother trying to get justice for her daughter's unsolved murder. the drama won best motion picture – drama and best screenplay at the golden globes, while mcdormand won best actress at the oscars. he continues to work in theatre with later plays hangmen (2015) and a very very very dark matter (2018) premiering in london. meanwhile 2011’s a behanding in spokane opened on broadway starring christopher walken as a man searching for his missing hand. this month, the gaiety will put on a production of the cripple of inishmaan, his 1930s set play about a boy who tries to escape the gossip and boredom of his aran islands’ village when an american ﬁ lm crew arrives. running from january 25 to march 9, the play stars ian o’reilly (moone boy), jamie-lee o’donnell (derry girls), sean fox (taken down) and phelim drew (my left foot). see it to witness mcdonagh’s acerbic wit and crackling dialogue ﬁ rst hand. 50 travel ireland magazine - january 2019